Jul
04
    
Posted (Lori) in News

ANNA’ S CABBAGE AND RICE

Makes 2-3 servings

My mom always made this with Savoy cabbage, but I find I love the slightly fresher character of Napa cabbage when it’s in season. The ratios are highly flexible, so adjust however you want. It’s delicious hot, but also great cold as leftovers the next day.

Ingredients:

1 cup Arborio rice

1 Napa cabbage or 1?2 a large Savoy cabbage cut into ~1 cm wide strips 4 cloves garlic or 2-3 garlic scapes, minced fine (more if you like garlic) 2-3 tablespoons olive oil

1?2 cup or more mozzarella cheese, grated

1?4 cup Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, grated

1?4 cup pecorino cheese, grated

Fill a large pot with water, and set to boil. When boiling, add salt. Don’t be shy about it – you get better results adding seasoning here than trying to add salt to too-bland rice at the end.

While the water’s coming to a boil, add olive oil and garlic to a large pan over medium-low heat. (This is the pan you will assemble the recipe in, so make sure there’s space.) Cook garlic for about a minute to let it marry with the oil, then turn off the heat.

If using Savoy cabbage, boil with the lid off in salted water until just tender, about 7 minutes. Drain immediately, saving water. (I do this, so I have ready-made hot salted water for the rice.) If using Napa cabbage, there’s no need to boil anything, although if you want the stalks to be extra soft, boil them for 3-4 minutes.

Cook the rice in the vacated cabbage water. You can boil the rice in excess water and drain it. However, I like to cook it as if adding liquid to risotto, because I find it easier to control the results. Start rice over medium-high heat in enough water to just cover it all. As the water starts to cook off, add about 1 cup at a time, stirring fairly regularly and waiting for the mixture to thicken slightly before adding the next cup. When the rice is tender but still firm, take it off the heat, and rinse it in a colander with a bit of cold water. This step isn’t strictly necessary, but it slows extra cooking and removes some of the starch.

As the rice is cooking, you can start to fry off the cabbage. Turn the heat back on the oil, and add cabbage a bit at a time, stirring to coat. Let it cook for about 10 minutes until everything in nice and soft, then add the drained rice. Stir well to coat the rice and heat it through.

Turn off the heat, and immediately stir the cheeses through the mixture. The residual heat will melt everything together. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Have some parsley on hand? It makes a wonderful, fresh garnish.

SWISS CHARD STUFFED PASTA

Makes enough sauce for 2-3 servings of pasta (more if it’s stuffed pasta)

This is a nice sauce for factory pasta (Penne or Fettuccine), but the best way to eat it is with fresh egg pasta. Get some nice egg Fettuccine or try your hand at making stuffed pastas from sheets. I don’t want to put anyone off trying the sauce any way that works. However, I’ve also included a basic outline for homemade pasta as a nudge to maybe try it sometime. It’s actually really simple, and the final result is incredibly special.

FILLING INGREDIENTS:

1 bunch Swiss chard

8 oz whole milk Ricotta cheese

1 cup Parmigiano Reggiano cheese

3-5 leaves crushed dried marjoram or oregano (marjoram is better but much harder to find)

1?4 tsp salt (adjust to taste)

freshly ground black pepper to taste

a small sprinkle of nutmeg to taste (optional)

BUTTER SAUCE: 1 tbsp butter melted with an equal amount of olive oil and 2-4 sage leaves. If you like, brown the butter. It’s a nice flavor, but I think it’s too strong for the original sentiment of the dish.

Boil Swiss chard (stalks and all) in a lot of salted water until soft – about 10 minutes. Drain, allow to cool, and squeeze out as much moisture as possible.

The filling can be made in a food processor or by hand. Mince chard to desired consistency. Stir through ricotta, parmesan, salt, pepper, marjoram, and nutmeg. If using for stuffed pasta, the final product should hold together in a mound. A bit of egg, especially beaten egg white, can help it bind. If using for pasta sauce, you want something the consistency of thick soup. You can thin it out by adding a couple spoonfuls of pasta water.

If using as pasta sauce, stir through freshly drained, cooked pasta. Optional: stir through butter sauce and a little extra parmesan. Serve immediately. See below for some notes on how to use in stuffed pasta.

STUFFED PASTA NOTES

There are many ways to stuff pasta. The most important thing is to start with a really thin sheet – about 1 mm thick or less. The basic idea for an easy pillow is a working rectangle of pasta. Place about a 1?2 teaspoon of stuffing in the middle of a rectangle about 7 cm wide by 10 cm tall (approx. 3×4 inches). Fold the rectangle down – you’re putting the crease in the longer edge. You’ll have three sides with a

seam, which you can seal by pressing with a fork. Trim off any excess – although I like a lip on the pillows. I’m being purposefully vague about technique, because you should modify however you want. E.g. you may find that you’re consistently getting too much excess seam, in which case decrease your working area or increase the amount of filling per pillow.

Cook the pillows in salted, boiling water. They’ll sink when they first go in. Give them a good stir to make sure they’re not sticking to the bottom of the pot. In about 3 minutes they’ll cook through and float to the top. Fish them out with a slotted spoon, and layer in a dish or deep plate with butter sauce and a bit of extra parmesan between each layer.

HOMEMADE PASTA NOTES

I highly recommend reading Marcella Hazan’s recipe and notes in The Classic Italian Cookbook. The ratios I list here are copied from there, and she has a bunch of very useful notes on hand rolling pasta. One thing I will add: unless you’re cooking for one, it’s going to be pretty tough to roll enough pasta by hand (ie, stretched across a rolling pin). Invest in a pasta machine – it looks like a tiny clothes mangle, and by the magic of levers, makes rolling sheets of egg pasta really simple.

3-4 people: 2 eggs + 1 1?2 cups all-purpose flour

5-6 people: 3 eggs + 2 1?4 cups all-purpose flour

7-8 people (aka 3 teenagers): 4 eggs + 3 cups all-purpose flour

It’s easier to add flour than liquid, so start with a little less than the stated portion of flour. Make a well in the center, and crack in the eggs. Beat them, and continue beating the flour into them from the edges of the well. When the dough comes together, turn it out onto a clean counter, and start kneading. After about 10 minutes, it should be smooth and elastic, ready for rolling. The most important thing about rolling: you’re stretching rather than pressing the dough. Whether you’re hand rolling or rolling with a machine, I recommend reading Hazan’s description and/or watching some videos to get a feel for how it’s done.

FRIED SUMMER SQUASH

Ingredients:

As many squash as you want, cut into pieces about the size of French fries

All purpose or a 50/50 mix of all purpose and whole wheat flour

2-3 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed

Salt

Pepper

About 1 tbsp vinegar (anything but Balsamic. Red wine vinegar is best.)

Enough vegetable or olive oil to cover a frying pan with about a 1?2 cm (less than ¼”) of oil

Begin heating oil over medium-high heat. Coat the squash pieces in flour. Add them to the hot oil, and let them fry, turning occasionally until pieces are evenly golden brown. Remove from oil, and drain briefly on a paper towel.

Transfer the fried squash (still hot) to a plate, and pile together with the crushed garlic. Sprinkle with salt, pepper, and vinegar. Allow everything to sit together for a bit, so that the garlic, salt, and vinegar really marry with the squash. The residual heat from the squash and the vinegar will make everything soggy – that’s how you want it! These are best served lukewarm as finger food.

PATRICIA’S SWEDISH STUFFED CABBAGE (Kåldolmar)

Emma Bengtsson, at Aquavit restaurant, gives clear instructions.    So delicious!  And it freezes well.n My changes include:

–using water instead of milk to cook the rice

–using oil instead of butter

–using maple syrup in step #5 (you’ll thank me for this substitution!)

Chef’s Notes: Aquavit chef Emma Bengtsson grew up eating this stuffed cabbage, lovingly made by her mother and grandmother. Stuffed cabbage is very forgiving; you can make it the day before, store in the fridge, then simply reheat and serve. Weeknight dinner rush: solved!

1 large green cabbage about 2½ pounds

1/4 C medium-grain white rice

3/4 C milk

kosher salt

1 small yellow onion, diced

3 Tbsp unsalted butter, divided

1 1/2 lb small yellow new potatoes, for serving

Ice cubes

1/3 lb ground beef

1/3 lb ground pork

white pepper

2 large eggs

2 Tbsp whole milk

3 Tbsp agave syrup or honey

1 C beef broth plus more as needed

3 Tbsp heavy cream

Lingonberry jam, for serving

1. Cabbage and rice: Cut out the core of the cabbage with a sharp knife. Remove the large, bitter outer leaves from the cabbage and discard. Carefully pull off the remaining larger leaves (about 10 of them), keeping them whole and as undamaged as possible. (Reserve the remaining cabbage for another use). Meanwhile, add rice, milk, and a pinch of salt to a medium saucepan over medium-low heat. Bring to a low simmer and cook uncovered until the grains absorb the milk, stirring occasionally, 10-20 minutes.

2. Onion and potatoes: Melt 1 tablespoon butter in a skillet over medium-high heat; sauté onions until soft, stirring occasionally, 4-5 minutes. Set aside for the meat filling. Meanwhile, place potatoes in a medium saucepan and add enough cold water to cover. Add a big pinch of salt and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to a simmer and cook uncovered until soft, 10-12 minutes. While the potatoes are simmering, check the rice. The mixture should begin to look like a porridge, with the grains intact. (This will act as a binder for the meat, as well as providing moisture.)

3. Cabbage: Prepare an ice bath. Bring a large pot of water to a boil; blanch the cabbage leaves in the boiling water for 2-3 minutes, or until pliable. Remove leaves and immediately plunge them into the ice bath to stop the cooking. Set aside on paper towels to dry. Meanwhile, check the rice mixture. When the rice has absorbed all the milk, spread it on a plate to quickly cool, 5 minutes. (Note: Rice can be prepared up to 1 day ahead.)

4. Meat filling: In a large mixing bowl, add beef, pork, eggs, sautéed onions, milk, a big pinch salt (about 1 teaspoon) and white pepper (about 1 teaspoon), and the cooled rice. Combine well with your hands, a whisk, or wooden spoon. (Alternatively, use a stand mixer with the paddle attachment on low speed.) To check the seasoning, fry a small bit of the meat mixture and taste it.

5. Assemble rolls: Preheat oven to 350 F. Grease baking dish with 1 tablespoon butter. Carefully cut out 1 inch of the thick center vein from the leaves, so they will be easier to roll up. Place 3-4 tablespoons of the meat filling (depending on the size of the cabbage leaf) into the center of a leaf and, starting at what was the stem-end, fold the sides in and roll up the cabbage to enclose the filling (like a burrito). Place the roll seam-side down in the baking dish. Repeat with remaining leaves and meat, arranging the rolls side by side in rows. Drizzle agave syrup over rolls and bake, 20 minutes.

6. After 20 minutes, remove dish from oven. Pour enough broth over the rolls to come halfway up the sides of the dish. Place back in oven for another 20 minutes.

7. Sauce: Cabbage rolls are done when brown on top and the meat is cooked through. Remove cabbage rolls from the dish and strain the cooking liquid through a fine-mesh strainer into a skillet. Bring liquid to a boil and reduce by half, whisking occasionally, 5 minutes. Whisk in cream, add a pinch of salt, and continue boiling to thicken slightly, 1 more minute. (Sauce will be on the brothy side.) Meanwhile, drain the potatoes and place in a bowl; add 1 tablespoon butter and salt to taste.

8. Place cabbage rolls and potatoes on a plate; add a few dollops of lingonberry jam on the side. Drizzle sauce over everything. Serve.

JENNIFER’S  ORZO WITH BUTTERNUT SQUASH, SPINACH, AND BLUE CHEESE

By Erin Alderson The Kitchn

https://www.thekitchn.com/recipe-orzo-with-winter-squash-spinach-amp-blue-cheese-212068

Jennifer writes, “It may not be “winter” squash but we made this using our goodies this week. A great side and feta can be used in lieu of blue cheese if anyone prefers!

2 1/2 cups cubed butternut squash (1/4-inch cubes)

3 tablespoons olive oil

1/4 teaspoon sea salt

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

1 cup regular or whole-wheat orzo

2 cups shredded spinach

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 clove garlic, minced

1/3 cup blue cheese crumbles

Preheat oven to 425?F. Toss butternut squash with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Spread into a single layer on a sheet tray. Bake until squash is tender and starting to brown, 35 to 40 minutes. (Squash can be roasted up to 5 days ahead and kept refrigerated. Rewarm before serving.)

Place the spinach in a large bowl and set aside. In a small skillet, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil until just warm. Stir in garlic, remove from heat, and allow to sit until ready to use.

Place the orzo in a pot and cover with at least 2 inches of water. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, and cook until tender but not mushy, 8 to 9 minutes. Drain and immediately pour the hot orzo on top of the spinach. Let sit for a few minutes to slightly wilt spinach.

Add butternut squash to the pasta, along with the blue cheese and garlic olive oil. Toss until well-combined and serve warm.

Recipe Notes

Make-ahead:Roast the squash whenever you have a spare moment and keep it in the fridge for up to 5 days. Warm it in the microwave, a low oven, or in the skillet with the garlic before tossing with the pasta.

Storage:Leftovers will keep for up to 4 days in an airtight container in the refrigerator.

CATHY’S CHINESE CHICKEN SALAD

Ellen Chao, Gourmet, 2006

Makes 6 to 8 main-course servings

INGREDIENTS

For fried wontons (optional)

20 square wonton wrappers, thawed if frozen

About 2 1/2 cups vegetable oil

For salad

1/2 pound snow peas, trimmed

1 lb Napa cabbage, cored, then cut crosswise into 1/3-inch-wide strips (about 6 cups)

1 (1-lb) head of romaine, torn into bite-size pieces (about 8 cups)

1/4 cup soy sauce

1/4 cup fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons sugar

1 tablespoon distilled white vinegar

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

1 tablespoon Asian sesame oil

1/4 cup vegetable oil

6 cups coarsely shredded cooked chicken (from a 2 1/2-lb rotisserie chicken)

1/2 cup chopped scallions

1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro

1/2 cup sliced almonds, toasted

2 tablespoons sesame seeds, toasted

Special Equipment

a deep-fat thermometer (if making wontons)

PREPARATION

Make fried wontons:

Cut wonton wrappers into 1/2-inch-wide strips and separate on paper towels.

Heat 3/4 inch oil in a wide 3-quart heavy saucepan over moderate heat until it registers 350°F on thermometer. Fry strips, 5 or 6 at a time, gently turning over once with a slotted spoon, until just golden, 15 to 30 seconds per batch (some strips will fold and curl). Transfer to paper towels to drain, then season with salt.

Make salad:

Cook snow peas in a 4-quart pot of boiling salted water until crisp-tender, about 1 1/2 minutes. Transfer with a slotted spoon to a bowl of ice and cold water to stop cooking, then drain in a colander and pat dry. Cut diagonally into 1-inch-wide pieces and put in a large bowl with cabbage and romaine.

Whisk together soy sauce, lemon juice, sugar, vinegar, salt, and pepper in a small bowl, then add sesame oil and vegetable oil in a slow stream, whisking until sugar is dissolved and dressing is combined well. Toss chicken and scallions with 1/3 cup of dressing in another large bowl. Whisk remaining dressing (it will separate), then add cabbage mixture, cilantro, almonds, and sesame seeds to chicken and toss with enough remaining dressing to coat. Sprinkle with wontons (if using).

Cooks’ note:

Wontons can be fried 1 day ahead and cooled completely, then kept in an airtight container at room temperature.

CECELIA’S PEAS AND PECORINO

Jeremy Fox On Vegetables: Modern Recipes for the Home Kitchen

James Beard Foundation

“The first restaurant I worked at after culinary school was Mumbo Jumbo in Atlanta, Georgia, and that’s where I ate really good blanched peas for the first time. They made a dish of peas with pecorino that made me realize I actually liked peas. So obviously, the Mumbo Jumbo concoction was a huge inspiration for this version.” —Jeremy Fox in his 2018 Beard Award–nominated On Vegetables: Modern Recipes for the Home Kitchen

Ingredients

1 1/2 pounds peas in their pods

Kosher salt

Handful of pea tendrils, to garnish

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 1/2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

1 tablespoon minced shallot

1 tablespoon chiffonade of mint

Freshly ground black pepper

4 ounces Pecorino Romano cheese, shaved or cut into small chunks

Shuck the peas; you should get about 2 cups of shucked peas.

Bring a pot of water to a boil over medium heat. Season it with enough salt that it tastes like the sea. Prepare an ice bath in a large bowl. Add the peas to the boiling water and cook, at a simmer, until they are tender but not mushy (this can vary based on the size of the peas), 2 to 4 minutes. Drain the peas and immediately transfer them to the ice bath until completely cool. Drain and spread the peas on paper towels and allow them to dry completely.

In a bowl, combine the peas with the pea tendrils, olive oil, vinegar, shallot, and mint. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

To serve, divide the dressed peas across plates. Top with pecorino and finish with more pepper.

4 to 6 servings



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