Nov
18
    
Posted (Lori) in News

Some recipes that work well this time of year:

BUTTERNUT SQUASH AND CIDER BISQUE: from Recipes from America’s Small Farms, p. 160. I always feel like I’m a better cook when I make this soup. It has a hint of curry, which adds more flavor than most squash soups. It can be made in advance  and is a good way to start the

Thanksgiving meal.

ROASTED GARLIC:

Not a real dish, but I don’t think I’ve used this great tip because we didn’t get garlic until last week. Just slice off the top of a whole, unpeeled garlic bulb, exposing the tops of the cloves. Wrap the whole thing loosely in aluminum foil and place on a  pan in a 400 degree oven. Roast for about 45 minutes, checking every 5 minutes after 30 minutes. You’ll know when it’s ready by poking the tops of the cloves with a toothpick; they will become totally soft. Take the garlic out and allow to cool completely. Garlic becomes stronger and easier to use when roasted. When cool, you can separate the cloves and squirt out the garlic like toothpaste, no need to mash or mince. I sometimes spread the garlic on toast, and add a slice of chesse.

BEETS WITH HORSERADISH CREME FRAICHE

From Christian Shaffer. Los Angeles Times

About 1 pound of beets, red, gold, or Chioggia, quartered if large

1 tablespoons seasoned rice vinegar (or balsamic)

3 tbs good-quality olive oil

1/4 teaspoon toasted ground coriander seeds

1 small shallot, minced

1/2 cup creme fraiche—see note below on how to make creme fraiche

1 tablespoons prepared horseradish

1 tablespoons kosher salt, divided

1/8 teaspoon black pepper

1 tablespoons fresh chervil or parsley, whole leaves or rough chopped

1. Boil the beets in enough water to cover, with 1 tablespoon salt, until tender, about an hour.

2. In a small bowl, combine the vinegar, oil, coriander and shallot and set the mixture aside for 30 minutes. In another bowl, combine the creme fraiche, horseradish, one-quarter teaspoon salt and pepper and set aside.

3. Drain the beets and, while still warm, peel them. Slice them into wedges, about 8 to 10 per beet, and cool.

4. Pour the vinegar mixture over the beets and let stand, covered, at room temperature for an hour. Spoon the horseradish cream onto a platter, covering the bottom. Using a slotted spoon, mound the beets over the cream. Garnish the beets with the chervil and serve.

CREME FRAICHE is a lot like sour cream, but better. You can buy it in cartons, but it’s pricey; it’s easy to make and I think the homemade version is better.

Instructions from Epicurious: Combine 1 cup whipping cream and 2 tablespoons buttermilk in a glass container. Cover and let stand at room temperature (about 70°F) from 8 to 24 hours, or until very thick. Stir well before covering and refrigerate up to 10 days.

I know—leaving the cream outside the refrigerator for 8 to 24 hours sounds wrong. But it doesn’t go bad, it gets better.

KOHLRABIT OR BRUSSELS SPROUTS IN EINBRENN OR WHITE SAUCE: Recipes from America’s Small Farms, pp 78-79.

MASHED POTATOES WITH FRIZZLED LEEKS

I don’t think we need a recipe for mashed potatoes, but in case some of you don’t know—one of the best ways to achieve fluffy mashed potatoes is with a ricer; they cost about $10 and it takes just a few minutes to turn boiled potatoes into the fluffiest, softest mashed potatoes ever.

I like my mashed potatoes plain, with just a bit of butter/cream/milk. But you can also add roasted garlic, olive oil, herbs and spices, or other vegetables. I sometimes boil peeled carrots, beets, sweet potatoes, turnips, winter squash, &/or parsnips (especially parnsips) with potatoes  and then rice them all together.

The frizzled leeks make this a little fancier, and they take just five minutes to make. Slice off the hairy top of the leek and then cut thin horizontal slices—just until after the leek turns from white to pale green. Divide the leek slices into rings Mix 2 tablespoons of flour with 1/4 tsp salt and a pinch of pepper in a shallow bowl or plate. Toss the leek rings in the flour. Pour a neutral oil into your smallest pot until it comes about 2 inches up th sides. Prepare a slotted spoon and a plate lines with paper towels. Put one leek ring in the pot over medium heat; when it begins to sizzle, toss in the rest of the leek rings. In less than 30 seconds, they will brown and frizzle. Remove the frizzled leeks with the slotted spoon immediately—or they will burn—and drain on the paper towels. Serve over mashed potatoes.

I usually do this right before I serve them, but it can also be done in advance.

Chef John’s Colcannon (submitted by Lee’at)

3 large russet potatoes, peeled and quartered

2 tablespoons butter at room temperature

4 ounces kale, trimmed and chopped

1 leek, light parts only, rinsed and chopped

1 bunch green onions, chopped, white and green parts separated

2 tablespoons butter at room temperature

salt and ground black pepper to taste

1/4 cup heavy whipping cream

2 tablespoons butter, for serving

1/4 cup green onions to garnish

Boil potatoes in a large pot of salted water until tender, about 20 minutes. Drain and transfer potatoes to a large bowl. Add 2 tablespoons butter and lightly mash the potatoes.

Boil kale and leeks in a large pot of water until tender, 5 to 7 minutes. Drain and transfer kale and leeks to a blender. Add white parts of the green onions and 2 more tablespoons butter; blend until smooth, scraping down sides as needed, 1 to 3 minutes.

Stir pureed kale mixture into the bowl of potatoes and continue to mash. Season with salt and black pepper to taste. Add cream and stir until desired texture. Top with 2 tablespoons butter and green parts of the green onions.

Chef’s Note: You can substitute kale with other leafy greens such as Swiss chard or cabbage.

POTATO LATKES

There are many ways to make latkes; in some families, including mine, there are some strong opinions on which way is best. I find that adding an egg to the grated eggs makes the best latke; other people omit the egg and add a pinch of baking soda instead

For about 3 pounds of potatoes, I use one egg, 1 teaspoon salt, 1/4 teaspoon pepper and about 3 tbs of vegetable oil.

I usually grate the potatoes by hand, on the small holes of a box grater. I think knuckle blood is an important ingredient. But this is probably just a tradition; when I’m busy or don’t want the pain, I use the food processor and they are just fine. When the potatoes are all grated, I let them sit for about ten minutes and then pour off the water; if you leave them longer that, they turn brown. While the potatoes are sitting, I add the salt and pepper and mix well. Heat your largest frying pan for about 30 seconds, then add vegetable oil, just a solid coating on the bottom—these are not deep fried. When the oil is very hot but not smoking, drop 1- to 2-tablespoons of batter for each latke; I fit about 8 on my pan and don’t crowd them so that it will not be too hard to turn them. When the edges are brown—don’t be impatient, these are raw potatoes and need a few minutes—flip them and fry the the other side. Flip again in the first side is not crispy and brown. When both sides are nice and brown, turn them onto a plate lined with paper towels to drain and serve hot.

You can grate other vegetables  with the potatoes. Most people add a small onion for every 2-3 pounds of potatoes. Sweet potatoes, beets, parsnips, carrots, winter squash, zucchini, kohlrabi, can all be mixed with the potatoes.

PATCHWORK PIE

This one-crust, bottomless pie is great after a big meal; you won’t miss the bottom crust, especially if you’re using sweet local apples. Marc Bittman used stone fuit when he published this recipe in the NYT a few years ago, but I find it makes a great apple pie. I sometimes add cranberries or raisins to the fruit.

8 tablespoons (1 stick) cold unsalted butter, cut into about 8 pieces, more for dish

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour, more for rolling

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar

3 cups sliced apples and pears,about  1/4” thick

1 teaspoon cinnamon

1/4 cup brown sugar

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice.

  1. Heat oven to 400 degrees and butter a 9-by-13-inch or similar-size baking dish; set aside. In a food processor, combine 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons flour, the salt and 1 tablespoon sugar; pulse once or twice. Add butter and turn on machine; process until butter and flour are blended and mixture looks like coarse cornmeal, about 15 to 20 seconds. Slowly add 1/4 cup ice water through feed tube and process until just combined. Form dough into a flat disk, wrap in plastic and freeze for 10 minutes or refrigerate for at least 30 minutes. (You can refrigerate dough for up to a couple of days, or freeze it, tightly wrapped, for up to a couple of weeks.)

NOTE: I find that this is enough for two pie crusts. I divide the dough into two discs, and if I’m not making two pies, I freeze one).

2. Meanwhile, in a large bowl toss fruit with remaining flour, white and brown sugar, cinnamon. and lemon juice; place in baking dish.

3. Put dough on a floured board or countertop and sprinkle with more flour. Roll dough into a 12-inch round, adding flour and rotating and turning dough as needed. Cut dough into 3-inch-wide strips, then cut again crosswise into 4-inch-long pieces. Scatter pieces over fruit in an overlapping patchwork pattern.

4. Brush top of dough lightly with water and sprinkle with remaining tablespoon sugar. Transfer to oven and bake until top is golden brown and juices bubble, 35 to 45 minutes. Transfer to a rack to cool; serve warm or at room temperature.

Yield: 6 to 8 servings.



Post a comment
Name: 
Email: 
URL: 
Comments: